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Hall of Fame Makanan Harian: Amelia Simmons

Hall of Fame Makanan Harian: Amelia Simmons


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The Daily Meal mengumumkan orang-orang yang dilantik ke dalamnya Hall of Fame untuk 2017. Inductee keenam kami adalah Amelia Simmons. Untuk semua penerima Daily Meal Hall of Fame, silakan klik di sini.

Amelia Simmons (1760-an?–?) menulis buku masak Amerika pertama yang dicetak, Masakan Amerika, diterbitkan di Hartford, Connecticut, pada tahun 1796. (Sub-judul panjangnya berbunyi: “Atau seni mengolah makanan, ikan, unggas, dan sayuran dan cara terbaik untuk membuat pasta, puff, pie, tart, puding, custard dan diawetkan, dan semua jenis kue, dari plumb kekaisaran hingga kue biasa. Disesuaikan dengan negara ini, dan semua tingkatan kehidupan.”)

Volume hanya 50 halaman ini tampak sederhana. Banyak resep Simmons hanya berjalan dua atau tiga baris - tetapi dampaknya pada penulis buku masak Amerika yang mengikutinya pasti.

Simmons adalah orang pertama yang menggunakan kosakata yang mewakili masakan Amerika di masa awal kemerdekaan. Bahasanya akan asing bagi juru masak Inggris. Alih-alih menyebut "gemuk", Simmons menyebut "pemendekan"; apa yang oleh juru masak Inggris akan disebut "biskuit" Simmons disebut "kue", dan apa yang akan dikenal sebagai "scone" di Inggris malahan "biskuit" Amerika. Tidak hanya dalam bahasanya tetapi juga dalam pilihan bahannya di seluruh buku , Simmons menunjukkan beberapa cara di mana masakan Amerika telah mengembangkan gayanya sendiri, membedakan dirinya dari warisan kolonial Inggrisnya.

Tidak hanya dalam bahasanya tetapi juga dalam pemilihan bahan-bahannya di seluruh buku, Simmons menunjukkan beberapa cara di mana masakan Amerika telah mengembangkan gayanya sendiri, membedakan dirinya dari warisan kolonial Inggrisnya. Dia menulis jagung India dengan cemerlang dan menyebutnya "salah satu biji-bijian yang paling menyenangkan dan sehat di dunia," kemudian menyatakan bahwa kue johnny atau kue cangkul berbasis jagung lebih baik daripada puding Yorkshire. Dia juga penulis pertama yang menyebutkan penggunaan bahan kimia yang meningkat yang disebut “pearl ash” — cikal bakal baking powder, terbuat dari sisa-sisa putih potash panggang (hari ini dikenal sebagai potasium karbonat).

Simmons tetap menjadi sosok misterius dalam sejarah kuliner, dan sangat sedikit yang diketahui tentang hidupnya. Di dalam Masakan Amerika dia mengacu pada asuhan yatim piatu, dan menyebutkan kurangnya "pendidikan yang cukup untuk mempersiapkan pekerjaan untuk pers." Ketekunannya dalam menerbitkan buku masak terlepas dari keterbatasannya sendiri patut diacungi jempol, dan kemungkinan besar dia memiliki dukungan finansial pada saat menulisnya.

Terlepas dari "semua tingkatan kehidupan" dalam sub-judulnya, resep dalam buku masaknya jelas ditujukan untuk keluarga dengan sumber daya yang murah hati. Misalnya, dia memberikan arahan untuk beberapa permen pada saat gula mahal dan tidak tersedia untuk rumah tangga biasa. Resepnya untuk "Kue Kemerdekaan" membutuhkan beberapa telur, dua puluh pon tepung, dan daun emas untuk dekorasi. Meskipun dimaksudkan untuk dibuat hanya sekali setahun untuk "Keempat Agung", kue mewah seperti ini tidak akan dipanggang oleh juru masak dengan cara yang lebih rendah.

Kita mungkin tidak tahu banyak tentang Amelia Simmons sendiri, tetapi dia adalah perintis sejati yang membuka pintu bagi pria dan wanita dalam penulisan buku masak Amerika.


Pitmasters: Orang Amerika Selatan Kulit Hitam yang Menemukan Barbekyu Seperti yang Kita Ketahui

Selama bertahun-tahun, makna barbekyu telah terdistorsi bagi banyak orang Amerika. Ini telah menjadi identik dengan Lays and Pringles rasa barbekyu, saus yang terlalu manis dan hot dog halaman belakang pada Empat Juli, hanya untuk beberapa nama. Namun, artikel ini bukanlah kritik terhadap makanan yang digoreng atau kacang panggang rumahan. Saya suka keripik "barbekyu" dan sering memasak hamburger untuk keluarga saya di atas panggangan. Namun betapapun saya menikmati makanan ini, mereka pucat dibandingkan dengan barbekyu Selatan sejati yang dimasak lama dan lambat.

Barbekyu adalah, pertama dan terutama, makanan Afrika-Amerika. Saya menggunakan frasa "Afrika Amerika" (bukan hanya "Afrika", "Amerika", atau "Hitam") untuk menekankan asal kompleks masakan ini. Barbekyu mengambil napas pertama di awal 1500-an, ketika orang Afrika yang diperbudak menemukan inspirasi dalam masakan penduduk asli Amerika. Ketika orang Afrika berusaha mempertahankan otonomi mereka dalam menghadapi penganiayaan ekstrem, mereka mengembangkan budaya makanan yang berbeda dari yang lain. Karena itu, barbekyu sangat politis sehingga menjadi alat yang sangat berharga untuk menelusuri perjuangan orang kulit hitam Amerika sepanjang sejarah.

Seperti banyak aspek budaya Amerika - jazz, "gaya jalanan" dan bahasa gaul yang umum - akar barbekyu Afrika sering terhapus sementara orang kulit putih Amerika menerima pujian. The Huffington Post menunjukkan bahwa dari tiga puluh enam Barbecue Hall of Fame yang dilantik, hanya lima dari mereka yang berkulit hitam. Selain itu, "Tur Barbekyu Epik Texas" oleh Eater gagal memasukkan satu pun barbekyu milik orang kulit hitam dalam daftarnya. Begitu dibutakannya para kritikus ini oleh sikap eurosentris sehingga mereka gagal mengenali penemu asli barbekyu dalam ulasan mereka.

Terlepas dari kekuatan yang berusaha melumpuhkan koki Black Southern — yang terbaik di antaranya dikenal sebagai Pitmaster — banyak yang bangkit untuk melestarikan tradisi mereka. Barbekyu lahir ratusan tahun yang lalu untuk menjaga akar Afrika individu tetap hidup melalui memasak, dan tujuan ini tetap kuat bahkan hingga hari ini.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Seringkali, ketika kita mengingat kembali masa kecil kita atau peristiwa budaya penting di masa lalu, kita memikirkan makanan yang menemani kita. Saat kita sakit, kebanyakan dari kita menginginkan makanan yang menenangkan di rumah, dan merupakan pujian yang tinggi untuk mengatakan bahwa hidangan itu rasanya “seperti yang biasa dibuat oleh Ibu.” Dengan kata lain, makanan mengingatkan kita dari mana kita berasal. Otak kita menghubungkan rasa dan memori dengan erat. Sedemikian rupa sehingga banyak orang mengalami kehilangan penciuman ketika ingatan mereka rusak. Masuk akal bahwa kita telah berevolusi untuk memproses ingatan dengan cara ini: Kita sebaiknya mengingat makanan yang membuat kita sakit. Namun otak kita tidak hanya menyimpan kenangan negatif seputar makanan — kita juga menyimpan perasaan positif yang ditimbulkannya.

Ini adalah salah satu alasan mengapa makanan sangat mengingatkan kita pada rumah, dan mengapa "makanan yang menenangkan" ada, ingatan kita tentang makanan disimpan bersama dengan cinta yang kita terima saat memakannya sebagai anak-anak. Anda mungkin pernah mendengar beberapa pengulangan klaim bercanda bahwa "tempat terakhir yang akan Anda asimilasi adalah di dapur," - dan itu sangat masuk akal! Jika otak kita secara biologis terhubung untuk menyimpan ingatan yang kuat tentang makanan, maka makan hidangan asli seseorang dapat memberikan hiburan bahkan dalam suasana asing. Dengan pemikiran ini, tidak mengherankan bahwa banyak orang Afrika yang diperbudak berusaha menggunakan sebanyak mungkin teknik memasak tradisional mereka saat memasak di lingkungan baru mereka dengan menyiapkan makanan mereka sama seperti di rumah, makanan melambangkan kemandirian pribadi. bahkan dalam menghadapi penindasan yang kejam.

Barbekyu begitu kuat dan populer saat ini persis karena harapan yang diberikannya kepada orang Afrika yang diperbudak. Setelah emansipasi, banyak orang Afrika yang baru dibebaskan merayakannya dengan barbekyu, sehingga mengukuhkannya sebagai “makanan kebebasan.” Hari ini, sifat perayaan barbekyu masih ada di banyak komunitas kulit hitam, menjadikannya bagian klasik dari sebagian besar acara Juneteenth.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Pitmaster saat ini menggunakan barbekyu untuk mengingat dari mana mereka berasal dan untuk memerangi pengapuran masakan tradisional Hitam. Saudara-saudara Jones dari Jones Bar-B-Q di Kansas City, Kansas, turun ke inti dari apa sebenarnya barbekyu ketika mereka menyatakan bahwa memahami barbekyu adalah "sesuatu yang dapat Anda lakukan untuk mengetahui bagaimana bertahan hidup." Orang Afrika yang diperbudak mulai memanggang untuk bertahan hidup baik secara fisik maupun spiritual, karena makanan memberi makan tubuh mereka dan memelihara jiwa mereka dengan kenangan akan rumah. Sejarah ini tidak dapat hilang karena merupakan bagian intrinsik dari apa yang diwakili oleh barbekyu.

Michael Twitty, penulis gen memasak, adalah salah satu dari banyak Black American Pitmasters yang bekerja untuk melestarikan akar barbekyu. Dia menelusuri evolusi makanan Afrika sepanjang sejarah dalam upaya untuk menyampaikan beberapa awal yang kompleks dari makanan yang sekarang kita kenal. Berkat karya para aktivis dan sejarawan seperti Twitty, orang Amerika perlahan mulai mengenali pengaruh monumental juru masak Afrika pada masakan Amerika. Meskipun koki Hitam masih jauh dari menerima penghargaan mereka, kami melihat beberapa peningkatan dalam skala besar. Pada tahun 2019, misalnya, koki Mariya Russell menjadi wanita kulit hitam pertama yang menerima Bintang Michelin. Selain itu, Barbecue Hall of Fame juga secara anumerta melantik John Bishop dan Christopher Stubbfield pada tahun 2019 sebagai pengakuan atas kontribusi mereka pada barbekyu. Ini adalah langkah kecil tapi menjanjikan menuju apresiasi yang lebih universal dari masakan Hitam. Salah satu cara kami dapat membantu adalah dengan makan di restoran milik orang kulit hitam untuk menemukan beberapa di daerah Anda, saya merekomendasikan aplikasi EatOakra, yang dapat mengarahkan Anda ke banyak restoran milik orang kulit hitam di dekat Anda. Jadi pergilah! Cobalah barbekyu, nikmati dan hargai sejarah mendalam yang tertanam di setiap gigitan.

Amelia Clute adalah mahasiswa tahun kedua di College of Arts and Sciences. Dia bisa dihubungi di [email protected]

Matahari, sekarang untuk iPhone

Klik Di Sini untuk Berdonasi Untuk Matahari

Kami adalah surat kabar mahasiswa yang independen. Bantu kami terus melaporkan dengan sumbangan pengurangan pajak ke Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, sebuah organisasi nirlaba yang didedikasikan untuk membantu The Sun. Untuk setiap hadiah yang diterima selama periode 1 Maret hingga 30 Juni 2021 dari siapa saja yang sebelumnya tidak pernah berkontribusi pada Ikatan Alumni, sekelompok alumni yang dermawan akan mencocokkannya dengan dolar demi dolar.

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Pitmasters: Orang Amerika Selatan Kulit Hitam yang Menemukan Barbekyu Seperti yang Kita Ketahui

Selama bertahun-tahun, makna barbekyu telah terdistorsi bagi banyak orang Amerika. Ini telah menjadi identik dengan Lays and Pringles rasa barbekyu, saus yang terlalu manis dan hot dog halaman belakang pada Empat Juli, hanya untuk beberapa nama. Namun, artikel ini bukanlah kritik terhadap makanan yang digoreng atau kacang panggang rumahan. Saya suka keripik "barbekyu" dan sering memasak hamburger untuk keluarga saya di atas panggangan. Namun betapapun saya menikmati makanan ini, mereka pucat dibandingkan dengan barbekyu Selatan sejati yang dimasak lama dan lambat.

Barbekyu, pertama dan terutama, adalah makanan Afrika-Amerika. Saya menggunakan frasa "Afrika Amerika" (bukan hanya "Afrika", "Amerika", atau "Hitam") untuk menekankan asal kompleks masakan ini. Barbekyu mengambil napas pertama di awal 1500-an, ketika orang Afrika yang diperbudak menemukan inspirasi dalam masakan penduduk asli Amerika. Ketika orang Afrika berusaha mempertahankan otonomi mereka dalam menghadapi penganiayaan ekstrem, mereka mengembangkan budaya makanan yang berbeda dari yang lain. Karena itu, barbekyu sangat politis sehingga menjadi alat yang sangat berharga untuk menelusuri perjuangan orang kulit hitam Amerika sepanjang sejarah.

Seperti banyak aspek budaya Amerika - jazz, "gaya jalanan" dan bahasa gaul yang umum - akar barbekyu Afrika sering terhapus sementara orang kulit putih Amerika menerima pujian. The Huffington Post menunjukkan bahwa dari tiga puluh enam Barbecue Hall of Fame yang dilantik, hanya lima dari mereka yang berkulit hitam. Selain itu, "Tur Barbekyu Epik Texas" oleh Eater gagal memasukkan bahkan satu barbekyu milik orang kulit hitam dalam daftarnya. Begitu dibutakannya para kritikus ini oleh sikap eurosentris sehingga mereka gagal mengenali penemu asli barbekyu dalam ulasan mereka.

Terlepas dari kekuatan yang berusaha melumpuhkan koki Black Southern — yang terbaik di antaranya dikenal sebagai Pitmaster — banyak yang bangkit untuk melestarikan tradisi mereka. Barbekyu lahir ratusan tahun yang lalu untuk menjaga akar Afrika individu tetap hidup melalui memasak, dan tujuan ini tetap kuat bahkan hingga hari ini.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Seringkali, ketika kita mengingat kembali masa kecil kita atau peristiwa budaya penting di masa lalu, kita memikirkan makanan yang menemani kita. Saat kita sakit, kebanyakan dari kita menginginkan makanan yang menenangkan di rumah, dan merupakan pujian yang tinggi untuk mengatakan bahwa hidangan itu rasanya “seperti yang biasa dibuat oleh Ibu.” Dengan kata lain, makanan mengingatkan kita dari mana kita berasal. Otak kita menghubungkan rasa dan memori dengan erat. Sedemikian rupa sehingga banyak orang mengalami kehilangan penciuman ketika ingatan mereka rusak. Masuk akal bahwa kita telah berevolusi untuk memproses ingatan dengan cara ini: Kita sebaiknya mengingat makanan yang membuat kita sakit. Namun otak kita tidak hanya menyimpan kenangan negatif seputar makanan — kita juga menyimpan perasaan positif yang ditimbulkannya.

Ini adalah salah satu alasan mengapa makanan sangat mengingatkan kita pada rumah, dan mengapa "makanan yang menenangkan" ada, ingatan kita tentang makanan disimpan bersama dengan cinta yang kita terima saat memakannya sebagai anak-anak. Anda mungkin pernah mendengar beberapa pengulangan klaim bercanda bahwa "tempat terakhir yang akan Anda asimilasi adalah di dapur," - dan itu sangat masuk akal! Jika otak kita secara biologis terhubung untuk menyimpan ingatan yang kuat tentang makanan, maka makan hidangan asli seseorang dapat memberikan hiburan bahkan dalam suasana asing. Dengan pemikiran ini, tidak mengherankan bahwa banyak orang Afrika yang diperbudak berusaha menggunakan sebanyak mungkin teknik memasak tradisional mereka saat memasak di lingkungan baru mereka dengan menyiapkan makanan mereka sama seperti di rumah, makanan melambangkan kemandirian pribadi. bahkan dalam menghadapi penindasan yang kejam.

Barbekyu begitu kuat dan populer saat ini persis karena harapan yang diberikannya kepada orang Afrika yang diperbudak. Setelah emansipasi, banyak orang Afrika yang baru dibebaskan merayakannya dengan barbekyu, sehingga mengukuhkannya sebagai “makanan kebebasan.” Hari ini, sifat perayaan barbekyu masih ada di banyak komunitas kulit hitam, menjadikannya bagian klasik dari sebagian besar acara Juneteenth.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Pitmaster saat ini menggunakan barbekyu untuk mengingat dari mana mereka berasal dan untuk memerangi pengapuran masakan tradisional Hitam. Saudara-saudara Jones dari Jones Bar-B-Q di Kansas City, Kansas, turun ke inti dari apa sebenarnya barbekyu ketika mereka menyatakan bahwa memahami barbekyu adalah "sesuatu yang dapat Anda lakukan untuk mengetahui bagaimana bertahan hidup." Orang Afrika yang diperbudak mulai memanggang untuk bertahan hidup baik secara fisik maupun spiritual, karena makanan memberi makan tubuh mereka dan memelihara jiwa mereka dengan kenangan akan rumah. Sejarah ini tidak dapat hilang karena merupakan bagian intrinsik dari apa yang diwakili oleh barbekyu.

Michael Twitty, penulis gen memasak, adalah salah satu dari banyak Black American Pitmasters yang bekerja untuk melestarikan akar barbekyu. Dia menelusuri evolusi makanan Afrika sepanjang sejarah dalam upaya untuk menyampaikan beberapa awal yang kompleks dari makanan yang sekarang kita kenal. Berkat karya para aktivis dan sejarawan seperti Twitty, orang Amerika perlahan mulai mengenali pengaruh monumental juru masak Afrika pada masakan Amerika. Meskipun koki Hitam masih jauh dari menerima kredit mereka, kami melihat beberapa peningkatan dalam skala besar. Pada tahun 2019, misalnya, koki Mariya Russell menjadi wanita kulit hitam pertama yang menerima Bintang Michelin, Barbecue Hall of Fame juga secara anumerta melantik John Bishop dan Christopher Stubbfield pada tahun 2019 sebagai pengakuan atas kontribusi mereka pada barbekyu. Ini adalah langkah kecil tapi menjanjikan menuju apresiasi yang lebih universal dari masakan Hitam. Salah satu cara kami dapat membantu adalah dengan makan di restoran milik orang kulit hitam untuk menemukan beberapa di daerah Anda, saya merekomendasikan aplikasi EatOakra, yang dapat mengarahkan Anda ke banyak restoran milik orang kulit hitam di dekat Anda. Jadi pergilah! Cobalah barbekyu, nikmati dan hargai sejarah mendalam yang tertanam di setiap gigitan.

Amelia Clute adalah mahasiswa tahun kedua di College of Arts and Sciences. Dia bisa dihubungi di [email protected]

Matahari, sekarang untuk iPhone

Klik Di Sini untuk Berdonasi Untuk Matahari

Kami adalah surat kabar mahasiswa yang independen. Bantu kami terus melaporkan dengan sumbangan pengurangan pajak ke Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, sebuah organisasi nirlaba yang didedikasikan untuk membantu The Sun. Untuk setiap hadiah yang diterima selama periode 1 Maret hingga 30 Juni 2021 dari siapa saja yang sebelumnya tidak pernah berkontribusi pada Ikatan Alumni, sekelompok alumni yang dermawan akan mencocokkannya dengan dolar demi dolar.

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Dari Madeira hingga Smuckers Mosaik

Oleh Sarah Austin 22 Juli 2020

Keluarga saya terkenal karena menunggu sampai menit terakhir untuk merencanakan perjalanan musim panas kami, itulah sebabnya musim panas ini sangat mengejutkan. Pada November 2019 kami memiliki tiket ke Madeira, dan selama liburan musim dingin kami mulai merencanakan dengan sangat informal.

Manjakan diri di Makanan Jalanan Terinspirasi Luna: Makanan Klasik Nyaman dengan Fusion Twist

Oleh Catherine Elsaesser 24 September 2015

Luna akan menjadi tempat yang bagus untuk bertemu dengan teman-teman untuk makan yang unik dan menenangkan, baik untuk makan siang atau hanya untuk makan di penghujung malam.


Pitmasters: Orang Amerika Selatan Kulit Hitam yang Menemukan Barbekyu Seperti yang Kita Ketahui

Selama bertahun-tahun, makna barbekyu telah terdistorsi bagi banyak orang Amerika. Ini telah menjadi identik dengan Lays and Pringles rasa barbekyu, saus yang terlalu manis dan hot dog halaman belakang pada Empat Juli, hanya untuk beberapa nama. Namun, artikel ini bukanlah kritik terhadap makanan yang digoreng atau kacang panggang rumahan. Saya suka keripik "barbekyu" dan sering memasak hamburger untuk keluarga saya di atas panggangan. Namun betapapun saya menikmati makanan ini, mereka pucat dibandingkan dengan barbekyu Selatan sejati yang dimasak lama dan lambat.

Barbekyu adalah, pertama dan terutama, makanan Afrika-Amerika. Saya menggunakan frasa "Afrika Amerika" (bukan hanya "Afrika", "Amerika", atau "Hitam") untuk menekankan asal kompleks masakan ini. Barbekyu mengambil napas pertama di awal 1500-an, ketika orang Afrika yang diperbudak menemukan inspirasi dalam masakan penduduk asli Amerika. Ketika orang Afrika berusaha mempertahankan otonomi mereka dalam menghadapi penganiayaan ekstrem, mereka mengembangkan budaya makanan yang berbeda dari yang lain. Karena itu, barbekyu sangat politis sehingga menjadi alat yang sangat berharga untuk menelusuri perjuangan orang kulit hitam Amerika sepanjang sejarah.

Seperti banyak aspek budaya Amerika - jazz, "gaya jalanan" dan bahasa gaul yang umum - akar barbekyu Afrika sering terhapus sementara orang kulit putih Amerika menerima pujian. The Huffington Post menunjukkan bahwa dari tiga puluh enam Barbecue Hall of Fame yang dilantik, hanya lima dari mereka yang berkulit hitam. Selain itu, "Tur Barbekyu Epik Texas" oleh Eater gagal memasukkan satu pun barbekyu milik orang kulit hitam dalam daftarnya. Begitu dibutakannya para kritikus ini oleh sikap eurosentris sehingga mereka gagal mengenali penemu asli barbekyu dalam ulasan mereka.

Terlepas dari kekuatan yang berusaha melumpuhkan koki Black Southern — yang terbaik di antaranya dikenal sebagai Pitmaster — banyak yang bangkit untuk melestarikan tradisi mereka. Barbekyu lahir ratusan tahun yang lalu untuk menjaga akar Afrika individu tetap hidup melalui memasak, dan tujuan ini tetap kuat bahkan hingga hari ini.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Seringkali, ketika kita mengingat kembali masa kecil kita atau peristiwa budaya penting di masa lalu, kita memikirkan makanan yang menemani kita. Saat kita sakit, kebanyakan dari kita menginginkan makanan yang menenangkan di rumah, dan merupakan pujian yang tinggi untuk mengatakan bahwa hidangan itu rasanya “seperti yang biasa dibuat oleh Ibu.” Dengan kata lain, makanan mengingatkan kita dari mana kita berasal. Otak kita menghubungkan rasa dan memori dengan erat. Sedemikian rupa sehingga banyak orang mengalami kehilangan penciuman ketika ingatan mereka rusak. Masuk akal bahwa kita telah berevolusi untuk memproses ingatan dengan cara ini: Kita sebaiknya mengingat makanan yang membuat kita sakit. Namun otak kita tidak hanya menyimpan kenangan negatif seputar makanan — kita juga menyimpan perasaan positif yang ditimbulkannya.

Ini adalah salah satu alasan mengapa makanan sangat mengingatkan kita pada rumah, dan mengapa "makanan yang menenangkan" ada, ingatan kita tentang makanan disimpan bersama dengan cinta yang kita terima saat memakannya sebagai anak-anak. Anda mungkin pernah mendengar beberapa pengulangan klaim bercanda bahwa "tempat terakhir yang akan Anda asimilasi adalah di dapur," - dan itu sangat masuk akal! Jika otak kita secara biologis terhubung untuk menyimpan ingatan yang kuat tentang makanan, maka makan hidangan asli seseorang dapat memberikan hiburan bahkan dalam suasana asing. Dengan pemikiran ini, tidak mengherankan bahwa banyak orang Afrika yang diperbudak berusaha menggunakan sebanyak mungkin teknik memasak tradisional mereka saat memasak di lingkungan baru mereka dengan menyiapkan makanan mereka sama seperti di rumah, makanan melambangkan kemandirian pribadi. bahkan dalam menghadapi penindasan yang kejam.

Barbekyu begitu kuat dan populer saat ini persis karena harapan yang diberikannya kepada orang Afrika yang diperbudak. Setelah emansipasi, banyak orang Afrika yang baru dibebaskan merayakannya dengan barbekyu, sehingga mengukuhkannya sebagai “makanan kebebasan.” Hari ini, sifat perayaan barbekyu masih ada di banyak komunitas kulit hitam, menjadikannya bagian klasik dari sebagian besar acara Juneteenth.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Pitmaster saat ini menggunakan barbekyu untuk mengingat dari mana mereka berasal dan untuk memerangi pengapuran masakan tradisional Hitam. Saudara-saudara Jones dari Jones Bar-B-Q di Kansas City, Kansas, turun ke inti dari apa sebenarnya barbekyu ketika mereka menyatakan bahwa memahami barbekyu adalah "sesuatu yang dapat Anda lakukan untuk mengetahui bagaimana bertahan hidup." Orang Afrika yang diperbudak mulai memanggang untuk bertahan hidup baik secara fisik maupun spiritual, karena makanan memberi makan tubuh mereka dan memelihara jiwa mereka dengan kenangan akan rumah. Sejarah ini tidak dapat hilang karena merupakan bagian intrinsik dari apa yang diwakili oleh barbekyu.

Michael Twitty, penulis gen memasak, adalah salah satu dari banyak Black American Pitmasters yang bekerja untuk melestarikan akar barbekyu. Dia menelusuri evolusi makanan Afrika sepanjang sejarah dalam upaya untuk menyampaikan beberapa awal yang kompleks dari makanan yang sekarang kita kenal. Berkat karya para aktivis dan sejarawan seperti Twitty, orang Amerika perlahan mulai mengenali pengaruh monumental juru masak Afrika pada masakan Amerika. Meskipun koki Hitam masih jauh dari menerima kredit mereka, kami melihat beberapa peningkatan dalam skala besar. Pada tahun 2019, misalnya, koki Mariya Russell menjadi wanita kulit hitam pertama yang menerima Bintang Michelin. Selain itu, Barbecue Hall of Fame juga secara anumerta melantik John Bishop dan Christopher Stubbfield pada tahun 2019 sebagai pengakuan atas kontribusi mereka pada barbekyu. Ini adalah langkah kecil tapi menjanjikan menuju apresiasi yang lebih universal dari masakan Hitam. Salah satu cara kami dapat membantu adalah dengan makan di restoran milik orang kulit hitam untuk menemukan beberapa di daerah Anda, saya merekomendasikan aplikasi EatOakra, yang dapat mengarahkan Anda ke banyak restoran milik orang kulit hitam di dekat Anda. Jadi pergilah! Cobalah barbekyu, nikmati dan hargai sejarah mendalam yang tertanam di setiap gigitan.

Amelia Clute adalah mahasiswa tahun kedua di College of Arts and Sciences. Dia bisa dihubungi di [email protected]

Matahari, sekarang untuk iPhone

Klik Di Sini untuk Berdonasi Untuk Matahari

Kami adalah surat kabar mahasiswa independen. Bantu kami terus melaporkan dengan sumbangan pengurangan pajak ke Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, sebuah organisasi nirlaba yang didedikasikan untuk membantu The Sun. Untuk setiap hadiah yang diterima selama periode 1 Maret hingga 30 Juni 2021 dari siapa saja yang sebelumnya tidak pernah berkontribusi pada Ikatan Alumni, sekelompok alumni yang dermawan akan mencocokkannya dengan dolar demi dolar.

Terkait

Dari Madeira hingga Smuckers Mosaik

Oleh Sarah Austin 22 Juli 2020

Keluarga saya terkenal karena menunggu sampai menit terakhir untuk merencanakan perjalanan musim panas kami, itulah sebabnya musim panas ini sangat mengejutkan. Pada November 2019 kami memiliki tiket ke Madeira, dan selama liburan musim dingin kami mulai merencanakan dengan sangat informal.

Manjakan diri di Makanan Jalanan Terinspirasi Luna: Makanan Klasik Nyaman dengan Fusion Twist

Oleh Catherine Elsaesser 24 September 2015

Luna akan menjadi tempat yang bagus untuk bertemu dengan teman-teman untuk makan yang unik dan menenangkan, baik untuk makan siang atau hanya untuk makan di penghujung malam.


Pitmasters: Orang Amerika Selatan Kulit Hitam yang Menemukan Barbekyu Seperti yang Kita Ketahui

Selama bertahun-tahun, makna barbekyu telah terdistorsi bagi banyak orang Amerika. Ini telah menjadi identik dengan Lays and Pringles rasa barbekyu, saus yang terlalu manis dan hot dog halaman belakang pada tanggal Empat Juli, hanya untuk beberapa nama. Namun, artikel ini bukanlah kritik terhadap makanan yang digoreng atau kacang panggang rumahan. Saya suka keripik "barbekyu" dan sering memasak hamburger untuk keluarga saya di atas panggangan. Namun betapapun saya menikmati makanan ini, mereka pucat dibandingkan dengan barbekyu Selatan sejati yang dimasak lama dan lambat.

Barbekyu adalah, pertama dan terutama, makanan Afrika-Amerika. Saya menggunakan frasa "Afrika Amerika" (bukan hanya "Afrika", "Amerika", atau "Hitam") untuk menekankan asal kompleks masakan ini. Barbekyu mengambil napas pertama di awal 1500-an, ketika orang Afrika yang diperbudak menemukan inspirasi dalam masakan penduduk asli Amerika. Ketika orang Afrika berusaha mempertahankan otonomi mereka dalam menghadapi penganiayaan yang ekstrem, mereka mengembangkan budaya makanan yang berbeda dari yang lain. Karena itu, barbekyu sangat politis sehingga menjadi alat yang sangat berharga untuk menelusuri perjuangan orang kulit hitam Amerika sepanjang sejarah.

Seperti banyak aspek budaya Amerika - jazz, "gaya jalanan" dan bahasa gaul yang umum - akar barbekyu Afrika sering terhapus sementara orang kulit putih Amerika menerima pujian. The Huffington Post menunjukkan bahwa dari tiga puluh enam Barbecue Hall of Fame yang dilantik, hanya lima dari mereka yang berkulit hitam. Selain itu, "Tur Barbekyu Epik Texas" oleh Eater gagal memasukkan bahkan satu barbekyu milik orang kulit hitam dalam daftarnya. Begitu dibutakannya para kritikus ini oleh sikap eurosentris sehingga mereka gagal mengenali penemu asli barbekyu dalam ulasan mereka.

Terlepas dari kekuatan yang berusaha melumpuhkan koki Black Southern — yang terbaik di antaranya dikenal sebagai Pitmaster — banyak yang bangkit untuk melestarikan tradisi mereka. Barbekyu lahir ratusan tahun yang lalu untuk menjaga akar Afrika individu tetap hidup melalui memasak, dan tujuan ini tetap kuat bahkan hingga hari ini.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Seringkali, ketika kita mengingat kembali masa kecil kita atau peristiwa budaya penting di masa lalu, kita memikirkan makanan yang menemani kita. Saat kita sakit, kebanyakan dari kita menginginkan makanan yang menenangkan di rumah, dan merupakan pujian yang tinggi untuk mengatakan bahwa hidangan itu rasanya “seperti yang biasa dibuat oleh Ibu.” Dengan kata lain, makanan mengingatkan kita dari mana kita berasal. Otak kita menghubungkan rasa dan memori dengan erat. Sedemikian rupa sehingga banyak orang mengalami kehilangan penciuman ketika ingatan mereka rusak. Masuk akal bahwa kita telah berevolusi untuk memproses ingatan dengan cara ini: Kita sebaiknya mengingat makanan yang membuat kita sakit. Namun otak kita tidak hanya menyimpan kenangan negatif seputar makanan — kita juga menyimpan perasaan positif yang ditimbulkannya.

Ini adalah salah satu alasan mengapa makanan sangat mengingatkan kita pada rumah, dan mengapa "makanan yang menenangkan" ada, ingatan kita tentang makanan disimpan bersama dengan cinta yang kita terima saat memakannya sebagai anak-anak. Anda mungkin pernah mendengar beberapa pengulangan klaim bercanda bahwa "tempat terakhir yang akan Anda asimilasi adalah di dapur," - dan itu sangat masuk akal! Jika otak kita secara biologis terhubung untuk menyimpan ingatan yang kuat tentang makanan, maka makan hidangan asli seseorang dapat memberikan hiburan bahkan dalam suasana asing. Dengan pemikiran ini, tidak mengherankan bahwa banyak orang Afrika yang diperbudak berusaha menggunakan sebanyak mungkin teknik memasak tradisional mereka saat memasak di lingkungan baru mereka dengan menyiapkan makanan mereka sama seperti di rumah, makanan melambangkan kemandirian pribadi. bahkan dalam menghadapi penindasan yang kejam.

Barbekyu begitu kuat dan populer saat ini justru karena harapan yang diberikannya kepada orang Afrika yang diperbudak. Setelah emansipasi, banyak orang Afrika yang baru dibebaskan merayakannya dengan barbekyu, sehingga mengukuhkannya sebagai “makanan kebebasan.” Hari ini, sifat perayaan barbekyu masih ada di banyak komunitas kulit hitam, menjadikannya bagian klasik dari sebagian besar acara Juneteenth.

Amelia Clute, Kontributor Matahari

Pitmaster saat ini menggunakan barbekyu untuk mengingat dari mana mereka berasal dan untuk memerangi pengapuran masakan tradisional Hitam. Saudara-saudara Jones dari Jones Bar-B-Q di Kansas City, Kansas, turun ke inti dari apa sebenarnya barbekyu ketika mereka menyatakan bahwa memahami barbekyu adalah "sesuatu yang dapat Anda lakukan untuk mengetahui bagaimana bertahan hidup." Orang Afrika yang diperbudak mulai memanggang untuk bertahan hidup baik secara fisik maupun spiritual, karena makanan memberi makan tubuh mereka dan memelihara jiwa mereka dengan kenangan akan rumah. Sejarah ini tidak dapat hilang karena merupakan bagian intrinsik dari apa yang diwakili oleh barbekyu.

Michael Twitty, penulis gen memasak, adalah salah satu dari banyak Black American Pitmasters yang bekerja untuk melestarikan akar barbekyu. Dia menelusuri evolusi makanan Afrika sepanjang sejarah dalam upaya untuk menyampaikan beberapa awal yang kompleks dari makanan yang sekarang kita kenal. Berkat karya para aktivis dan sejarawan seperti Twitty, orang Amerika perlahan mulai mengenali pengaruh monumental juru masak Afrika pada masakan Amerika. Meskipun koki Hitam masih jauh dari menerima penghargaan mereka, kami melihat beberapa peningkatan dalam skala besar. Pada tahun 2019, misalnya, koki Mariya Russell menjadi wanita kulit hitam pertama yang menerima Bintang Michelin. Selain itu, Barbecue Hall of Fame juga secara anumerta melantik John Bishop dan Christopher Stubbfield pada tahun 2019 sebagai pengakuan atas kontribusi mereka pada barbekyu. Ini adalah langkah kecil tapi menjanjikan menuju apresiasi yang lebih universal dari masakan Hitam. Salah satu cara kami dapat membantu adalah dengan makan di restoran milik orang kulit hitam untuk menemukan beberapa di daerah Anda, saya merekomendasikan aplikasi EatOakra, yang dapat mengarahkan Anda ke banyak restoran milik orang kulit hitam di dekat Anda. Jadi pergilah! Cobalah barbekyu, nikmati dan hargai sejarah mendalam yang tertanam di setiap gigitan.

Amelia Clute adalah mahasiswa tahun kedua di College of Arts and Sciences. Dia bisa dihubungi di [email protected]

Matahari, sekarang untuk iPhone

Klik Di Sini untuk Berdonasi Untuk Matahari

Kami adalah surat kabar mahasiswa independen. Bantu kami terus melaporkan dengan sumbangan pengurangan pajak ke Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, sebuah organisasi nirlaba yang didedikasikan untuk membantu The Sun. For each gift received during the March 1 to June 30, 2021 period from anyone who has never previously contributed to the Alumni Association, a group of generous alums will match it dollar-for-dollar.

Terkait

From Madeira to Smuckers Mosaics

By Sarah Austin July 22, 2020

My family is notorious for waiting until the last minute to plan our summer trip that’s why this summer was so surprising. In November 2019 we had tickets to Madeira, and over winter break we began to very informally plan.

Indulging at Luna Inspired Street Food: Comfort Food Classics with a Fusion Twist

By Catherine Elsaesser September 24, 2015

Luna would be a great place to meet up with friends for a unique and comforting meal, whether for lunch or just to grab a bite to eat at the end of the night.


Pitmasters: The Black Southern Americans Who Invented Barbecue As We Know It

Over the years, the meaning of barbecue has been distorted for many Americans. It has become synonymous with barbecue flavored Lays and Pringles, overly sweet sauces and backyard hot dogs on the Fourth of July, just to name a few. This article is not a critique of fried food or home-grilled franks, however. I love “barbecue” chips and frequently cook up hamburgers for my family on the grill. Yet however much I may enjoy these foods, they pale in comparison to true Southern barbecue cooked long-and-slow.

Barbecue is, first and foremost, a deeply African American food. I use the phrase “African American” (rather than just “African”, “American”, or “Black”) in order to emphasize the complex origins of this cuisine. Barbecue took its first breath in the early 1500s, when enslaved Africans found inspiration in the local Native American cuisine. As Africans sought to preserve their autonomy in the face of extreme persecution, they developed a food culture unlike any other. Because of this, barbecue is intensely political it becomes an invaluable tool for tracing the struggles of Black Americans throughout history.

Like so many aspects of American culture — jazz, “street style” and common slang — barbecue’s African roots are often erased while white Americans receive the credit. The Huffington Post points out that of the thirty-six Barbecue Hall of Fame inductees, only five of them are Black. Additionally, the “Epic Barbecue Tour of Texas” by Eater fails to include even one Black-owned barbecue joint on its list. So blinded are these critics by eurocentric attitudes that they fail to recognize the original inventors of barbecue in their reviews.

Despite the forces which attempt to stifle Black Southern cooks — the best of whom are known as Pitmasters — many are rising up to preserve their tradition. Barbecue was born hundreds of years ago to keep individuals’ African roots alive through cooking, and this goal holds strong even today.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Oftentimes, when we think back on our childhood or important cultural events in our past, we think of the food which accompanied us. When we’re sick, most of us desire the comforting food of the home, and it is high praise to say that a dish tastes “just like Mom used to make.” In other words, food reminds us of where we came from. Our brains link taste and memory closely. So much so, in fact, that many people experience a loss of smell when their memory is damaged. It makes sense that we have evolved to process memory in this way: We would do well to remember the foods which made us sick. Yet our brains do not solely hold onto negative memories surrounding food — we hold onto the positive feelings which it invokes, as well.

This is one of the reasons why food reminds us so much of home, and why “comfort foods” exist our memory of the food is stored in conjunction with the love which we received while eating it as kids. You may have heard some iteration of the joking claim that “the last place you’ll assimilate is in the kitchen,” — and it makes perfect sense! If our brains are biologically wired to store strong memories about food, then eating one’s native dishes can provide solace even in a foreign setting. With this in mind, it is no wonder that many enslaved Africans sought to use as many of their traditional cooking techniques as possible when cooking in their new environment by preparing their meals similarly to how one might back home, the food comes to symbolize personal independence even in the face of cruel oppression.

Barbecue is so powerful and popular today exactly because of this hope which it gave to enslaved Africans. After emancipation, many newly freed Africans celebrated with barbecue, thus solidifying it as a “freedom food.” Today, the celebratory nature of barbecue still exists in many Black communities, making it a quintessential part of most Juneteenth events.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Pitmasters today are using barbecue to remember where they came from and to combat the whitewashing of traditionally Black cooking. The Jones sisters of Jones Bar-B-Q in Kansas City, Kansas, get down to the core of what barbecue is truly about when they state that understanding barbecue is “something you could do to know how to survive.” Enslaved Africans began barbecuing in order to survive both physically and spiritually, as the food fed their bodies and nourished their souls with memories of home. This history cannot be lost as it is an intrinsic part of what barbecue represents.

Michael Twitty, author of The Cooking Gene, is one of many Black American Pitmasters working to preserve barbecue’s roots. He traces the evolution of African food throughout history in an effort to convey some of the complex beginnings of the food we are now familiar with. Thanks to the work of activists and historians like Twitty, Americans are slowly beginning to recognize the monumental influence of African cooks on American cuisine. Though Black chefs are still a long way away from receiving their due credit, we are seeing some improvements on a large scale. In 2019, for example, chef Mariya Russell became the first Black woman to receive a Michelin Star additionally, the Barbecue Hall of Fame also posthumously inducted John Bishop and Christopher Stubbfield in 2019 in recognition of their contributions to barbecue. These are small but promising steps towards a more universal appreciation of Black cooking. One way we can help is by eating at Black-owned restaurants to find some in your area, I recommend the app EatOakra, which can point you towards a plethora of Black-owned restaurants near you. So go out! Try some barbecue, enjoy it and appreciate the deep history entrenched in every bite.

Amelia Clute is a sophomore in the College of Arts and Sciences. She can be reached at [email protected]

The Sun, now for iPhone

Click Here to Donate To The Sun

We are an independent, student newspaper. Help keep us reporting with a tax-deductible donation to the Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, a non-profit dedicated to aiding The Sun. For each gift received during the March 1 to June 30, 2021 period from anyone who has never previously contributed to the Alumni Association, a group of generous alums will match it dollar-for-dollar.

Terkait

From Madeira to Smuckers Mosaics

By Sarah Austin July 22, 2020

My family is notorious for waiting until the last minute to plan our summer trip that’s why this summer was so surprising. In November 2019 we had tickets to Madeira, and over winter break we began to very informally plan.

Indulging at Luna Inspired Street Food: Comfort Food Classics with a Fusion Twist

By Catherine Elsaesser September 24, 2015

Luna would be a great place to meet up with friends for a unique and comforting meal, whether for lunch or just to grab a bite to eat at the end of the night.


Pitmasters: The Black Southern Americans Who Invented Barbecue As We Know It

Over the years, the meaning of barbecue has been distorted for many Americans. It has become synonymous with barbecue flavored Lays and Pringles, overly sweet sauces and backyard hot dogs on the Fourth of July, just to name a few. This article is not a critique of fried food or home-grilled franks, however. I love “barbecue” chips and frequently cook up hamburgers for my family on the grill. Yet however much I may enjoy these foods, they pale in comparison to true Southern barbecue cooked long-and-slow.

Barbecue is, first and foremost, a deeply African American food. I use the phrase “African American” (rather than just “African”, “American”, or “Black”) in order to emphasize the complex origins of this cuisine. Barbecue took its first breath in the early 1500s, when enslaved Africans found inspiration in the local Native American cuisine. As Africans sought to preserve their autonomy in the face of extreme persecution, they developed a food culture unlike any other. Because of this, barbecue is intensely political it becomes an invaluable tool for tracing the struggles of Black Americans throughout history.

Like so many aspects of American culture — jazz, “street style” and common slang — barbecue’s African roots are often erased while white Americans receive the credit. The Huffington Post points out that of the thirty-six Barbecue Hall of Fame inductees, only five of them are Black. Additionally, the “Epic Barbecue Tour of Texas” by Eater fails to include even one Black-owned barbecue joint on its list. So blinded are these critics by eurocentric attitudes that they fail to recognize the original inventors of barbecue in their reviews.

Despite the forces which attempt to stifle Black Southern cooks — the best of whom are known as Pitmasters — many are rising up to preserve their tradition. Barbecue was born hundreds of years ago to keep individuals’ African roots alive through cooking, and this goal holds strong even today.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Oftentimes, when we think back on our childhood or important cultural events in our past, we think of the food which accompanied us. When we’re sick, most of us desire the comforting food of the home, and it is high praise to say that a dish tastes “just like Mom used to make.” In other words, food reminds us of where we came from. Our brains link taste and memory closely. So much so, in fact, that many people experience a loss of smell when their memory is damaged. It makes sense that we have evolved to process memory in this way: We would do well to remember the foods which made us sick. Yet our brains do not solely hold onto negative memories surrounding food — we hold onto the positive feelings which it invokes, as well.

This is one of the reasons why food reminds us so much of home, and why “comfort foods” exist our memory of the food is stored in conjunction with the love which we received while eating it as kids. You may have heard some iteration of the joking claim that “the last place you’ll assimilate is in the kitchen,” — and it makes perfect sense! If our brains are biologically wired to store strong memories about food, then eating one’s native dishes can provide solace even in a foreign setting. With this in mind, it is no wonder that many enslaved Africans sought to use as many of their traditional cooking techniques as possible when cooking in their new environment by preparing their meals similarly to how one might back home, the food comes to symbolize personal independence even in the face of cruel oppression.

Barbecue is so powerful and popular today exactly because of this hope which it gave to enslaved Africans. After emancipation, many newly freed Africans celebrated with barbecue, thus solidifying it as a “freedom food.” Today, the celebratory nature of barbecue still exists in many Black communities, making it a quintessential part of most Juneteenth events.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Pitmasters today are using barbecue to remember where they came from and to combat the whitewashing of traditionally Black cooking. The Jones sisters of Jones Bar-B-Q in Kansas City, Kansas, get down to the core of what barbecue is truly about when they state that understanding barbecue is “something you could do to know how to survive.” Enslaved Africans began barbecuing in order to survive both physically and spiritually, as the food fed their bodies and nourished their souls with memories of home. This history cannot be lost as it is an intrinsic part of what barbecue represents.

Michael Twitty, author of The Cooking Gene, is one of many Black American Pitmasters working to preserve barbecue’s roots. He traces the evolution of African food throughout history in an effort to convey some of the complex beginnings of the food we are now familiar with. Thanks to the work of activists and historians like Twitty, Americans are slowly beginning to recognize the monumental influence of African cooks on American cuisine. Though Black chefs are still a long way away from receiving their due credit, we are seeing some improvements on a large scale. In 2019, for example, chef Mariya Russell became the first Black woman to receive a Michelin Star additionally, the Barbecue Hall of Fame also posthumously inducted John Bishop and Christopher Stubbfield in 2019 in recognition of their contributions to barbecue. These are small but promising steps towards a more universal appreciation of Black cooking. One way we can help is by eating at Black-owned restaurants to find some in your area, I recommend the app EatOakra, which can point you towards a plethora of Black-owned restaurants near you. So go out! Try some barbecue, enjoy it and appreciate the deep history entrenched in every bite.

Amelia Clute is a sophomore in the College of Arts and Sciences. She can be reached at [email protected]

The Sun, now for iPhone

Click Here to Donate To The Sun

We are an independent, student newspaper. Help keep us reporting with a tax-deductible donation to the Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, a non-profit dedicated to aiding The Sun. For each gift received during the March 1 to June 30, 2021 period from anyone who has never previously contributed to the Alumni Association, a group of generous alums will match it dollar-for-dollar.

Terkait

From Madeira to Smuckers Mosaics

By Sarah Austin July 22, 2020

My family is notorious for waiting until the last minute to plan our summer trip that’s why this summer was so surprising. In November 2019 we had tickets to Madeira, and over winter break we began to very informally plan.

Indulging at Luna Inspired Street Food: Comfort Food Classics with a Fusion Twist

By Catherine Elsaesser September 24, 2015

Luna would be a great place to meet up with friends for a unique and comforting meal, whether for lunch or just to grab a bite to eat at the end of the night.


Pitmasters: The Black Southern Americans Who Invented Barbecue As We Know It

Over the years, the meaning of barbecue has been distorted for many Americans. It has become synonymous with barbecue flavored Lays and Pringles, overly sweet sauces and backyard hot dogs on the Fourth of July, just to name a few. This article is not a critique of fried food or home-grilled franks, however. I love “barbecue” chips and frequently cook up hamburgers for my family on the grill. Yet however much I may enjoy these foods, they pale in comparison to true Southern barbecue cooked long-and-slow.

Barbecue is, first and foremost, a deeply African American food. I use the phrase “African American” (rather than just “African”, “American”, or “Black”) in order to emphasize the complex origins of this cuisine. Barbecue took its first breath in the early 1500s, when enslaved Africans found inspiration in the local Native American cuisine. As Africans sought to preserve their autonomy in the face of extreme persecution, they developed a food culture unlike any other. Because of this, barbecue is intensely political it becomes an invaluable tool for tracing the struggles of Black Americans throughout history.

Like so many aspects of American culture — jazz, “street style” and common slang — barbecue’s African roots are often erased while white Americans receive the credit. The Huffington Post points out that of the thirty-six Barbecue Hall of Fame inductees, only five of them are Black. Additionally, the “Epic Barbecue Tour of Texas” by Eater fails to include even one Black-owned barbecue joint on its list. So blinded are these critics by eurocentric attitudes that they fail to recognize the original inventors of barbecue in their reviews.

Despite the forces which attempt to stifle Black Southern cooks — the best of whom are known as Pitmasters — many are rising up to preserve their tradition. Barbecue was born hundreds of years ago to keep individuals’ African roots alive through cooking, and this goal holds strong even today.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Oftentimes, when we think back on our childhood or important cultural events in our past, we think of the food which accompanied us. When we’re sick, most of us desire the comforting food of the home, and it is high praise to say that a dish tastes “just like Mom used to make.” In other words, food reminds us of where we came from. Our brains link taste and memory closely. So much so, in fact, that many people experience a loss of smell when their memory is damaged. It makes sense that we have evolved to process memory in this way: We would do well to remember the foods which made us sick. Yet our brains do not solely hold onto negative memories surrounding food — we hold onto the positive feelings which it invokes, as well.

This is one of the reasons why food reminds us so much of home, and why “comfort foods” exist our memory of the food is stored in conjunction with the love which we received while eating it as kids. You may have heard some iteration of the joking claim that “the last place you’ll assimilate is in the kitchen,” — and it makes perfect sense! If our brains are biologically wired to store strong memories about food, then eating one’s native dishes can provide solace even in a foreign setting. With this in mind, it is no wonder that many enslaved Africans sought to use as many of their traditional cooking techniques as possible when cooking in their new environment by preparing their meals similarly to how one might back home, the food comes to symbolize personal independence even in the face of cruel oppression.

Barbecue is so powerful and popular today exactly because of this hope which it gave to enslaved Africans. After emancipation, many newly freed Africans celebrated with barbecue, thus solidifying it as a “freedom food.” Today, the celebratory nature of barbecue still exists in many Black communities, making it a quintessential part of most Juneteenth events.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Pitmasters today are using barbecue to remember where they came from and to combat the whitewashing of traditionally Black cooking. The Jones sisters of Jones Bar-B-Q in Kansas City, Kansas, get down to the core of what barbecue is truly about when they state that understanding barbecue is “something you could do to know how to survive.” Enslaved Africans began barbecuing in order to survive both physically and spiritually, as the food fed their bodies and nourished their souls with memories of home. This history cannot be lost as it is an intrinsic part of what barbecue represents.

Michael Twitty, author of The Cooking Gene, is one of many Black American Pitmasters working to preserve barbecue’s roots. He traces the evolution of African food throughout history in an effort to convey some of the complex beginnings of the food we are now familiar with. Thanks to the work of activists and historians like Twitty, Americans are slowly beginning to recognize the monumental influence of African cooks on American cuisine. Though Black chefs are still a long way away from receiving their due credit, we are seeing some improvements on a large scale. In 2019, for example, chef Mariya Russell became the first Black woman to receive a Michelin Star additionally, the Barbecue Hall of Fame also posthumously inducted John Bishop and Christopher Stubbfield in 2019 in recognition of their contributions to barbecue. These are small but promising steps towards a more universal appreciation of Black cooking. One way we can help is by eating at Black-owned restaurants to find some in your area, I recommend the app EatOakra, which can point you towards a plethora of Black-owned restaurants near you. So go out! Try some barbecue, enjoy it and appreciate the deep history entrenched in every bite.

Amelia Clute is a sophomore in the College of Arts and Sciences. She can be reached at [email protected]

The Sun, now for iPhone

Click Here to Donate To The Sun

We are an independent, student newspaper. Help keep us reporting with a tax-deductible donation to the Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, a non-profit dedicated to aiding The Sun. For each gift received during the March 1 to June 30, 2021 period from anyone who has never previously contributed to the Alumni Association, a group of generous alums will match it dollar-for-dollar.

Terkait

From Madeira to Smuckers Mosaics

By Sarah Austin July 22, 2020

My family is notorious for waiting until the last minute to plan our summer trip that’s why this summer was so surprising. In November 2019 we had tickets to Madeira, and over winter break we began to very informally plan.

Indulging at Luna Inspired Street Food: Comfort Food Classics with a Fusion Twist

By Catherine Elsaesser September 24, 2015

Luna would be a great place to meet up with friends for a unique and comforting meal, whether for lunch or just to grab a bite to eat at the end of the night.


Pitmasters: The Black Southern Americans Who Invented Barbecue As We Know It

Over the years, the meaning of barbecue has been distorted for many Americans. It has become synonymous with barbecue flavored Lays and Pringles, overly sweet sauces and backyard hot dogs on the Fourth of July, just to name a few. This article is not a critique of fried food or home-grilled franks, however. I love “barbecue” chips and frequently cook up hamburgers for my family on the grill. Yet however much I may enjoy these foods, they pale in comparison to true Southern barbecue cooked long-and-slow.

Barbecue is, first and foremost, a deeply African American food. I use the phrase “African American” (rather than just “African”, “American”, or “Black”) in order to emphasize the complex origins of this cuisine. Barbecue took its first breath in the early 1500s, when enslaved Africans found inspiration in the local Native American cuisine. As Africans sought to preserve their autonomy in the face of extreme persecution, they developed a food culture unlike any other. Because of this, barbecue is intensely political it becomes an invaluable tool for tracing the struggles of Black Americans throughout history.

Like so many aspects of American culture — jazz, “street style” and common slang — barbecue’s African roots are often erased while white Americans receive the credit. The Huffington Post points out that of the thirty-six Barbecue Hall of Fame inductees, only five of them are Black. Additionally, the “Epic Barbecue Tour of Texas” by Eater fails to include even one Black-owned barbecue joint on its list. So blinded are these critics by eurocentric attitudes that they fail to recognize the original inventors of barbecue in their reviews.

Despite the forces which attempt to stifle Black Southern cooks — the best of whom are known as Pitmasters — many are rising up to preserve their tradition. Barbecue was born hundreds of years ago to keep individuals’ African roots alive through cooking, and this goal holds strong even today.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Oftentimes, when we think back on our childhood or important cultural events in our past, we think of the food which accompanied us. When we’re sick, most of us desire the comforting food of the home, and it is high praise to say that a dish tastes “just like Mom used to make.” In other words, food reminds us of where we came from. Our brains link taste and memory closely. So much so, in fact, that many people experience a loss of smell when their memory is damaged. It makes sense that we have evolved to process memory in this way: We would do well to remember the foods which made us sick. Yet our brains do not solely hold onto negative memories surrounding food — we hold onto the positive feelings which it invokes, as well.

This is one of the reasons why food reminds us so much of home, and why “comfort foods” exist our memory of the food is stored in conjunction with the love which we received while eating it as kids. You may have heard some iteration of the joking claim that “the last place you’ll assimilate is in the kitchen,” — and it makes perfect sense! If our brains are biologically wired to store strong memories about food, then eating one’s native dishes can provide solace even in a foreign setting. With this in mind, it is no wonder that many enslaved Africans sought to use as many of their traditional cooking techniques as possible when cooking in their new environment by preparing their meals similarly to how one might back home, the food comes to symbolize personal independence even in the face of cruel oppression.

Barbecue is so powerful and popular today exactly because of this hope which it gave to enslaved Africans. After emancipation, many newly freed Africans celebrated with barbecue, thus solidifying it as a “freedom food.” Today, the celebratory nature of barbecue still exists in many Black communities, making it a quintessential part of most Juneteenth events.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Pitmasters today are using barbecue to remember where they came from and to combat the whitewashing of traditionally Black cooking. The Jones sisters of Jones Bar-B-Q in Kansas City, Kansas, get down to the core of what barbecue is truly about when they state that understanding barbecue is “something you could do to know how to survive.” Enslaved Africans began barbecuing in order to survive both physically and spiritually, as the food fed their bodies and nourished their souls with memories of home. This history cannot be lost as it is an intrinsic part of what barbecue represents.

Michael Twitty, author of The Cooking Gene, is one of many Black American Pitmasters working to preserve barbecue’s roots. He traces the evolution of African food throughout history in an effort to convey some of the complex beginnings of the food we are now familiar with. Thanks to the work of activists and historians like Twitty, Americans are slowly beginning to recognize the monumental influence of African cooks on American cuisine. Though Black chefs are still a long way away from receiving their due credit, we are seeing some improvements on a large scale. In 2019, for example, chef Mariya Russell became the first Black woman to receive a Michelin Star additionally, the Barbecue Hall of Fame also posthumously inducted John Bishop and Christopher Stubbfield in 2019 in recognition of their contributions to barbecue. These are small but promising steps towards a more universal appreciation of Black cooking. One way we can help is by eating at Black-owned restaurants to find some in your area, I recommend the app EatOakra, which can point you towards a plethora of Black-owned restaurants near you. So go out! Try some barbecue, enjoy it and appreciate the deep history entrenched in every bite.

Amelia Clute is a sophomore in the College of Arts and Sciences. She can be reached at [email protected]

The Sun, now for iPhone

Click Here to Donate To The Sun

We are an independent, student newspaper. Help keep us reporting with a tax-deductible donation to the Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, a non-profit dedicated to aiding The Sun. For each gift received during the March 1 to June 30, 2021 period from anyone who has never previously contributed to the Alumni Association, a group of generous alums will match it dollar-for-dollar.

Terkait

From Madeira to Smuckers Mosaics

By Sarah Austin July 22, 2020

My family is notorious for waiting until the last minute to plan our summer trip that’s why this summer was so surprising. In November 2019 we had tickets to Madeira, and over winter break we began to very informally plan.

Indulging at Luna Inspired Street Food: Comfort Food Classics with a Fusion Twist

By Catherine Elsaesser September 24, 2015

Luna would be a great place to meet up with friends for a unique and comforting meal, whether for lunch or just to grab a bite to eat at the end of the night.


Pitmasters: The Black Southern Americans Who Invented Barbecue As We Know It

Over the years, the meaning of barbecue has been distorted for many Americans. It has become synonymous with barbecue flavored Lays and Pringles, overly sweet sauces and backyard hot dogs on the Fourth of July, just to name a few. This article is not a critique of fried food or home-grilled franks, however. I love “barbecue” chips and frequently cook up hamburgers for my family on the grill. Yet however much I may enjoy these foods, they pale in comparison to true Southern barbecue cooked long-and-slow.

Barbecue is, first and foremost, a deeply African American food. I use the phrase “African American” (rather than just “African”, “American”, or “Black”) in order to emphasize the complex origins of this cuisine. Barbecue took its first breath in the early 1500s, when enslaved Africans found inspiration in the local Native American cuisine. As Africans sought to preserve their autonomy in the face of extreme persecution, they developed a food culture unlike any other. Because of this, barbecue is intensely political it becomes an invaluable tool for tracing the struggles of Black Americans throughout history.

Like so many aspects of American culture — jazz, “street style” and common slang — barbecue’s African roots are often erased while white Americans receive the credit. The Huffington Post points out that of the thirty-six Barbecue Hall of Fame inductees, only five of them are Black. Additionally, the “Epic Barbecue Tour of Texas” by Eater fails to include even one Black-owned barbecue joint on its list. So blinded are these critics by eurocentric attitudes that they fail to recognize the original inventors of barbecue in their reviews.

Despite the forces which attempt to stifle Black Southern cooks — the best of whom are known as Pitmasters — many are rising up to preserve their tradition. Barbecue was born hundreds of years ago to keep individuals’ African roots alive through cooking, and this goal holds strong even today.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Oftentimes, when we think back on our childhood or important cultural events in our past, we think of the food which accompanied us. When we’re sick, most of us desire the comforting food of the home, and it is high praise to say that a dish tastes “just like Mom used to make.” In other words, food reminds us of where we came from. Our brains link taste and memory closely. So much so, in fact, that many people experience a loss of smell when their memory is damaged. It makes sense that we have evolved to process memory in this way: We would do well to remember the foods which made us sick. Yet our brains do not solely hold onto negative memories surrounding food — we hold onto the positive feelings which it invokes, as well.

This is one of the reasons why food reminds us so much of home, and why “comfort foods” exist our memory of the food is stored in conjunction with the love which we received while eating it as kids. You may have heard some iteration of the joking claim that “the last place you’ll assimilate is in the kitchen,” — and it makes perfect sense! If our brains are biologically wired to store strong memories about food, then eating one’s native dishes can provide solace even in a foreign setting. With this in mind, it is no wonder that many enslaved Africans sought to use as many of their traditional cooking techniques as possible when cooking in their new environment by preparing their meals similarly to how one might back home, the food comes to symbolize personal independence even in the face of cruel oppression.

Barbecue is so powerful and popular today exactly because of this hope which it gave to enslaved Africans. After emancipation, many newly freed Africans celebrated with barbecue, thus solidifying it as a “freedom food.” Today, the celebratory nature of barbecue still exists in many Black communities, making it a quintessential part of most Juneteenth events.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Pitmasters today are using barbecue to remember where they came from and to combat the whitewashing of traditionally Black cooking. The Jones sisters of Jones Bar-B-Q in Kansas City, Kansas, get down to the core of what barbecue is truly about when they state that understanding barbecue is “something you could do to know how to survive.” Enslaved Africans began barbecuing in order to survive both physically and spiritually, as the food fed their bodies and nourished their souls with memories of home. This history cannot be lost as it is an intrinsic part of what barbecue represents.

Michael Twitty, author of The Cooking Gene, is one of many Black American Pitmasters working to preserve barbecue’s roots. He traces the evolution of African food throughout history in an effort to convey some of the complex beginnings of the food we are now familiar with. Thanks to the work of activists and historians like Twitty, Americans are slowly beginning to recognize the monumental influence of African cooks on American cuisine. Though Black chefs are still a long way away from receiving their due credit, we are seeing some improvements on a large scale. In 2019, for example, chef Mariya Russell became the first Black woman to receive a Michelin Star additionally, the Barbecue Hall of Fame also posthumously inducted John Bishop and Christopher Stubbfield in 2019 in recognition of their contributions to barbecue. These are small but promising steps towards a more universal appreciation of Black cooking. One way we can help is by eating at Black-owned restaurants to find some in your area, I recommend the app EatOakra, which can point you towards a plethora of Black-owned restaurants near you. So go out! Try some barbecue, enjoy it and appreciate the deep history entrenched in every bite.

Amelia Clute is a sophomore in the College of Arts and Sciences. She can be reached at [email protected]

The Sun, now for iPhone

Click Here to Donate To The Sun

We are an independent, student newspaper. Help keep us reporting with a tax-deductible donation to the Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, a non-profit dedicated to aiding The Sun. For each gift received during the March 1 to June 30, 2021 period from anyone who has never previously contributed to the Alumni Association, a group of generous alums will match it dollar-for-dollar.

Terkait

From Madeira to Smuckers Mosaics

By Sarah Austin July 22, 2020

My family is notorious for waiting until the last minute to plan our summer trip that’s why this summer was so surprising. In November 2019 we had tickets to Madeira, and over winter break we began to very informally plan.

Indulging at Luna Inspired Street Food: Comfort Food Classics with a Fusion Twist

By Catherine Elsaesser September 24, 2015

Luna would be a great place to meet up with friends for a unique and comforting meal, whether for lunch or just to grab a bite to eat at the end of the night.


Pitmasters: The Black Southern Americans Who Invented Barbecue As We Know It

Over the years, the meaning of barbecue has been distorted for many Americans. It has become synonymous with barbecue flavored Lays and Pringles, overly sweet sauces and backyard hot dogs on the Fourth of July, just to name a few. This article is not a critique of fried food or home-grilled franks, however. I love “barbecue” chips and frequently cook up hamburgers for my family on the grill. Yet however much I may enjoy these foods, they pale in comparison to true Southern barbecue cooked long-and-slow.

Barbecue is, first and foremost, a deeply African American food. I use the phrase “African American” (rather than just “African”, “American”, or “Black”) in order to emphasize the complex origins of this cuisine. Barbecue took its first breath in the early 1500s, when enslaved Africans found inspiration in the local Native American cuisine. As Africans sought to preserve their autonomy in the face of extreme persecution, they developed a food culture unlike any other. Because of this, barbecue is intensely political it becomes an invaluable tool for tracing the struggles of Black Americans throughout history.

Like so many aspects of American culture — jazz, “street style” and common slang — barbecue’s African roots are often erased while white Americans receive the credit. The Huffington Post points out that of the thirty-six Barbecue Hall of Fame inductees, only five of them are Black. Additionally, the “Epic Barbecue Tour of Texas” by Eater fails to include even one Black-owned barbecue joint on its list. So blinded are these critics by eurocentric attitudes that they fail to recognize the original inventors of barbecue in their reviews.

Despite the forces which attempt to stifle Black Southern cooks — the best of whom are known as Pitmasters — many are rising up to preserve their tradition. Barbecue was born hundreds of years ago to keep individuals’ African roots alive through cooking, and this goal holds strong even today.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Oftentimes, when we think back on our childhood or important cultural events in our past, we think of the food which accompanied us. When we’re sick, most of us desire the comforting food of the home, and it is high praise to say that a dish tastes “just like Mom used to make.” In other words, food reminds us of where we came from. Our brains link taste and memory closely. So much so, in fact, that many people experience a loss of smell when their memory is damaged. It makes sense that we have evolved to process memory in this way: We would do well to remember the foods which made us sick. Yet our brains do not solely hold onto negative memories surrounding food — we hold onto the positive feelings which it invokes, as well.

This is one of the reasons why food reminds us so much of home, and why “comfort foods” exist our memory of the food is stored in conjunction with the love which we received while eating it as kids. You may have heard some iteration of the joking claim that “the last place you’ll assimilate is in the kitchen,” — and it makes perfect sense! If our brains are biologically wired to store strong memories about food, then eating one’s native dishes can provide solace even in a foreign setting. With this in mind, it is no wonder that many enslaved Africans sought to use as many of their traditional cooking techniques as possible when cooking in their new environment by preparing their meals similarly to how one might back home, the food comes to symbolize personal independence even in the face of cruel oppression.

Barbecue is so powerful and popular today exactly because of this hope which it gave to enslaved Africans. After emancipation, many newly freed Africans celebrated with barbecue, thus solidifying it as a “freedom food.” Today, the celebratory nature of barbecue still exists in many Black communities, making it a quintessential part of most Juneteenth events.

Amelia Clute, Sun Contributor

Pitmasters today are using barbecue to remember where they came from and to combat the whitewashing of traditionally Black cooking. The Jones sisters of Jones Bar-B-Q in Kansas City, Kansas, get down to the core of what barbecue is truly about when they state that understanding barbecue is “something you could do to know how to survive.” Enslaved Africans began barbecuing in order to survive both physically and spiritually, as the food fed their bodies and nourished their souls with memories of home. This history cannot be lost as it is an intrinsic part of what barbecue represents.

Michael Twitty, author of The Cooking Gene, is one of many Black American Pitmasters working to preserve barbecue’s roots. He traces the evolution of African food throughout history in an effort to convey some of the complex beginnings of the food we are now familiar with. Thanks to the work of activists and historians like Twitty, Americans are slowly beginning to recognize the monumental influence of African cooks on American cuisine. Though Black chefs are still a long way away from receiving their due credit, we are seeing some improvements on a large scale. In 2019, for example, chef Mariya Russell became the first Black woman to receive a Michelin Star additionally, the Barbecue Hall of Fame also posthumously inducted John Bishop and Christopher Stubbfield in 2019 in recognition of their contributions to barbecue. These are small but promising steps towards a more universal appreciation of Black cooking. One way we can help is by eating at Black-owned restaurants to find some in your area, I recommend the app EatOakra, which can point you towards a plethora of Black-owned restaurants near you. So go out! Try some barbecue, enjoy it and appreciate the deep history entrenched in every bite.

Amelia Clute is a sophomore in the College of Arts and Sciences. She can be reached at [email protected]

The Sun, now for iPhone

Click Here to Donate To The Sun

We are an independent, student newspaper. Help keep us reporting with a tax-deductible donation to the Cornell Daily Sun Alumni Association, a non-profit dedicated to aiding The Sun. For each gift received during the March 1 to June 30, 2021 period from anyone who has never previously contributed to the Alumni Association, a group of generous alums will match it dollar-for-dollar.

Terkait

From Madeira to Smuckers Mosaics

By Sarah Austin July 22, 2020

My family is notorious for waiting until the last minute to plan our summer trip that’s why this summer was so surprising. In November 2019 we had tickets to Madeira, and over winter break we began to very informally plan.

Indulging at Luna Inspired Street Food: Comfort Food Classics with a Fusion Twist

By Catherine Elsaesser September 24, 2015

Luna would be a great place to meet up with friends for a unique and comforting meal, whether for lunch or just to grab a bite to eat at the end of the night.


Tonton videonya: Hall of Fame